Tenaya climbing shoes reddit. Length-wise, they seem perfect.

Tenaya climbing shoes reddit. 5 in street shoes. It's definitely got a narrower toebox so if you have wide feet that could be an issue. I’ve come to the point where i’m looking to buy my second pair of climbing shoes. Speedsters were a really radical idea of what a climbing shoe could be, and mantras are the most watered down version of that. Tenaya Mastia 40 (a bit narrower than Iati, surprisingly good at edging, generally soft, liner ripped, gets floppy in hot weather) Tenaya Oasi 40 (right now the perfect allround shoe for me; edges nicely, responsive, fits my feet perfectly) This is all very subjective! Been shopping around for some new climbing shoes and tried the Tenaya Mastia yesterday. Try warming the rubber up before you wear them using a hot vent, or leaving them in the car for a few minutes, or bending the shoes around to literally warm them up. Nov 17, 2023 · The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. How does Tenaya’s sizing compare to your regular sneaker size? Should I purchase a size down from my regular sneaker size? I’m a size 9. I currently got the Tenaya Ra (womens) in EU 40, and I can pretty much wear them through a whole session without taking them off. Overall very happy with the shoe, but I don't know that much about climbing or shoes. the phantoms felt I feel bad returning climbing shoes bc of the funk even after one session of trying them on. I’m eyeing up a pair of La Sportiva Kubo. I've had a bunch of Scarpa and La Sportiva shoes and previously owned Tenaya Masai (all Tenayas use the original XSGrip) and in my experience the original XSGrip rubber doesn't last as long. Jan 11, 2022 · Facts Pros Cons Alternative Pick: Evolv Shaman 15. I'm in Spain and climbing shops are in suprisingly short supply, so can't go to a store and try a bunch of shoes. But there’s a problem The rubber. I climb mostly vertical granite with quite small foot holds. How does Tenaya’s sizing compare to your regular sneaker size? Should I purchase a size down from my regular sneaker size? I’m a size 10 in street shoes. It’s not a bad idea but I feels like maybe better to get a pair of sport climbing shoes that you can really”trash” it. 5 and UK 4. Most effective on long, overhanging routes combining everything from boulder problem crux moves to technical edging, or tenuous smearing. In my experience I felt like the edge of the shoe was kind of positioned under and behind my big toe which made slab and vert more difficult because I had to be extra aware of where the shoes edge was actually making We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Has anyone here climbed in a pair and if so what are your thoughts. Saki Kikuchi solely wears the Oasi and has appeared in World Cup finals. I’m slipping a LOT on holds and volumes when I shouldn’t be. 9 (8uk) and still feels comfortable. They excel mainly in steep climbing that is generally inaccessible to a beginner. A subreddit dedicated to discussing and reviewing climbing shoes. aggressive soft sticky rubber and good for all sorts of climbing, even slab. How many times have you worn them? Are you wearing them for that 30mins every training session? I find my shoes start to become more comfortable after 4-5 climbing sessions that are typically about 2 hours long. I have to go up a size or… Tenaya Sizing I am looking to buy my first pair of Tenaya climbing shoes but I hear the sizing is a little off. I was interested on buying the tenaya mastia. They fit like a stiff, thick La Sportiva Venom. I recently tried the Tenaya Indalo which has almost exclusively positive reviews and is seen on a lot of world-class climbs too. La Sportiva is almost legendary about giving 0 fucks about design issues with performance shoes. Aug 4, 2023 · The perfect climbing shoes don’t exist (and no shoe can magically improve your climbing skills), but the Tenaya Tanta finds a sweet spot between performance and comfort. 5s on, they feel a lot closer fitting I have very narrow feet and my climbing shoes are la sportive mythos. My favorite all time that I've found so far have been Tenaya Masai, which actually fit my heels pretty decently (although not perfectly). My issue is this: the size 4 is very comfortable and my toe is touching the end of the shoe. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. I don't know what to tell you - as you already know, none of the Tenaya shoes give you the support/feeling of precision as the Solution Comp. 5 to 42. But I feel they lack in more verticality terrain bringing less support than I expected. From what I've read the Indalo is narrower (although still wider than the Iati & Oasi) and has more of an egyptian shape, whereas the Mastia is wider and more tailored towards greek feet. After trying what felt like a thousand shoes, I've found my perfect fit (and heel- and toehook abilities, and agressiveness/comfort ratio) in the scarpa vapor low volume (LV). I also prefer soft shoes to stiff ones, and prefer somewhat downturned shoes. Building the first version of this list was simple: we simply asked ourselves which shoes we wanted included, then pulled from the reviews we’ve written over the years. TLDR: (1) Sensitive shoe - Scarpa Dragos LV; (2) Neutral shoe (in terms of sensitivity) - Tenaya Masais; (3) Edging/Stiff shoe - LaSpo Miuras VS (Women) Heads up for the long comment - I am a shoe fanatic (heels, sneakers, climbing shoes lol), and have been struggling for 4 years to find the perfect shoe. Currently climb in a la sportiva finale's sizee 40. they’ve held up pretty nicely after climbing both inside and outdoors. I would say the Tenaya sizing is pretty similar to the La Sportiva sizing. I am looking to get new rock climbing shoes. Not aggresive, but I have seen climbers use them up until 7a (font scale) so I stopped worrying about the shoe being flat. Tenaya Iati 40. I've tried a few models (Tenaya Tanta, Evolv Defy, LS Tarantula Boulder) and I realised my knuckles are being pushed on to the top of the shoe. Is this a common sentiment or am I just insane? I actually found that in a few months mine went from snug to quite loose (for a climbing shoe). To get the best performance from the shoe, you should wear a size that allows you to go with your toes flexed. V3-4 climber? Technique ok, muscles nonexistent. It may be worth looking at a third option (neither resole nor buy new). I'm looking to upgrade from beginner shoes (Tenaya Tanta) to something softer and more sensitive for bouldering. Shoes similar to Tenaya Tarifa I'm a size EU 40 in the tarifas, and the front of the shoe is perfect with the narrowness and toe box, but there is some dead space in the heel cup. 5 and I need new ones as they are 4 years old, and have holes in the rand and soul. I've been climbing in five ten niad's for the past year or so and really like the the way they fit my toes but I'm 28 votes, 78 comments. Than with flagship unparallel in uk 8, the heel is a lot better but the same thin with sizing down?Maybe something simillar to them? trueI’ve been climbing once a week for a little over half a year now, and am about V4 (6B) level now, so I decided it’s time for some new shoes. My feet type and shoe recommendations? Hey. Tenaya Mastia has a wider toebox, more similar to a Sportiva shoe, so you might want to check out that instead. Anyone has opinions on the two shoes, can't really seem to figure out what's that different between them. I tried the tenaya Indalos but my second toe was too tight, a problem which I have been climbing in Tenaya Oasi's for about half a year ever since i started climbing again after a very long break. Felt bad returning shoe after shoe every week 😆 Reply reply Organic_fake • Reply reply More repliesMore replies compassion_is_enough • My go-to shoes have been La Sportiva Futura, Miura, and the Tenaya Mundaka. I want to go pretty aggressive because I think I’ll keep improving the coming months. I'm struggling a bit to determine which type of feet I have, I'd say greek, or what do you think? I was wearing Millet Easy-Ups prior. I am looking to buy my first pair of Tenaya climbing shoes but I hear the sizing is a little off. All of the reviews that I have read have been fantastic but it worries me buying them without seeing them in person. My outer large toenail can break off in chunks when I wear climbing shoes, so Egyptian shape shoe could be ok too? I am thinking maybe try a lace-up shoe to get Coronas are awesome shoes, mine are perfect for all-day climbing, though the velcro needed a few repairs on almost every one of my pairs. I’ve worn the VSR for over 5 years, primarily indoors. They were super comfortable for climbing shoes, in the end a bit too loose for heel hooks. Rubber is also different as Tenaya use the original Vibram XSGrip formula, while La Sportiva (and Scarpa) use XSGrip2 (or XSEdge). I find they are narrow-ish, compared the Mastia and La Sportiva Theory, though not as narrow as the narrower Tenaya. 5. Tenaya Tarifa thoughts? Hey Just ordered a pair of tarifa's aiming for more verticality terrain. I have wide feet with high arches and it seems like most climbing shoes are meant for narrow feet. You mentioned Solutions and Miuras, both of which don't fit me. I want my shoes small but the toes are in the way kind of. 5 street shoe and wear a 37. My favourite sport and bouldering shoes. Tenaya tanta, even when they aren’t aggresive are perfectly good gym shoes and they usually are very affordable on ebay. Typically they come with the whole range of sizes and models so it's a good free way to try out new shoes for a climbing session without any commitment. Hello everyone! I started climbing and bouldering last year (LOVING it btw!), and am finding that I could do with some slightly snugger/more aggressive shoes. they have low volume option as well. I find that it leaves some dead spots eventhough i downsize from 46 (11uk) to 42. Tenaya sizing I am looking to buy my first pair of Tenaya climbing shoes but I hear the sizing is a little off. , La Sportiva Solutions). The thing is that the heat of your foot helps with breaking them in, so if you’re only climbing for 30mins and not getting hot/ working up a sweat they will take much longer to break in. La sportiva theory may be another option too but it's a softer shoe. Tenaya Ra Climbing Shoes I am looking at getting a pair of Tenaya Ra's but I can't find many people who have used them or anywhere locally that carry them. 5 and solutions in size 39. Even smearing against the wall I seldom feel stable. So going with Oasi LV may be too narrow. Coming from XS Grip 2 and Xs Edge, this feels like an insane downgrade. Do not like butora gomis rubber. Instinct VSR/VSW vs Tenaya Indalo Looking for some advice for anyone that has experience with these two shoes. I climb indoors and with a preference for overhanging climbs About your shoes. Hi there, I bought my first climbing shoes at Campers Corner, the staff were really helpful when I was a beginner back in 2021. I have a wide toebox but with a low volume heel I would say. Tenaya Mastia vs Indalo fit How do people who like the Mastia like the Indalo? I like the Mastia a lot and wonder if I should try the Indalo. However, both of these shoes are pretty much on the last legs of their lives and I was looking for a replacement (bouldering Hi everyone, Trying tenaya for the first time. I spend most of my time sport climbing indoor, maybe around a 70/30 split of the time, where I engage in bouldering more often than top/lead climbing. They fit my feet better than any shoe I've tried and they have incredible sensitivity, which is the most important thing for me when choosing shoes. I'm pretty limited in my shoe options due to only wanting to buy vegan climbing shoes. Soft Shoes Sole Shape and Shoe Performance Flat shoes (comfort) Downturned shoes (performance) Climbing Shoe Rubber Different Shoes for Different Purposes Where to Buy Hey everybody. Keep in mind everyone has different opinion on shoes varied by price, what everyone in their community has, foot shape, climbing style, etc. Now I have 37 1/2 La Sportiva, they are definitely tighter and needed braking in but now okay. Be warned you have to downsize a lot, I usually hover around 37 in other brands but in tenayas, I wear 35. Hi all, I was looking for some information on Tenaya shoes. Noting that some people that buy very expensive, very sensitive and soft climbing shoes to climb indoors potentially own more than 1 pair - and they aren't using these pricey shoes for every send. When I was looking to buy a new pair of shoes (began climbing again recently) I ended up trying on La Sportiva, Evolv, Scarpa and now Tenaya. I have skwamas in size 36. Tenaya Mastia are the only shoes I've found in a decade of climbing that are available in my size (EU48ish for street shoes) AND the exact right shape for my heel. The tenaya indalo in UK 5 1/2 theye fit from the heel, almost, a little i slip out of them but my toes are again stacked on each other. 5 (pretty wide forefoot (too wide for me), could not get into 40. hello!! i’m looking to buy some new shoes after spending almost a year with my sweet scarpa instinct VS pair (size 37. 5). I started with 5. cheers Basically title, I've been climbing with my Scarpa Vapor V's for a while now pretty much run them into the ground but for most of the time I've had them the heel box has been far too large with a bunch of dead space. Oasis are super comfortable and i wear them downsized from street 43. I'm a Sep 26, 2024 · The Tenaya Tanta climbing shoe is a great gym shoe at an affordable price, combining fit, comfort, performance, and durability. I think I have a Greek shape foot (pic included below). Currently I mostly climb in LS Theory's. It fits me pretty good everywhere but my heel. 10 niads and have been climbing in the Tenaya Oasi for the last 6-8 months. 5 sizes smaller than my street shoe size, and half a size smaller than my tc pros, but same size as the skwama vegan. Seconding Tenaya! The Ra LV shoe is a bit more snug in the heel than the regular Ra, and is one of the comfiest shoes I've ever tried while still being intermediate. However I did recently notice that This can be because many shoes have had larger heel cups. trueSo I've currently got two pairs of Tenaya Oasi LV that I ordered online, UK 3. If y’all have worn any of shoes mentioned above and can speak to their fit/performance compared to the Kubos, I’d love to hear about it! Jan 23, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. I had to retire my scarpa origin a while a go, and bought the tenaya Tanta to replace them while training. Length-wise, they seem perfect. After researching and trying on several climbing shoes it has come down to these two. 5 and have tried solution comps in the same size in store. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. The toe part is worn down now, and I think I can find better shoes for morton's toe or Greek feet, where my 2nd toe is longer than my big toe (3rd toe is same length as big toe). 5 years and been through a few shoes so thought I'd write a review based on my experience in case it can help people in the future. I currently wear a pair of la sportiva skwamas in size 38. I also look forward to better edging capabilities. I couldn't understand how people have said they're known to be comfy until actually putting them on. The Matador laces are one of my favorite shoes overall (though the break-in was the least comfortable of any shoe I've ever used). I'm only bouldering indoors (around 3 times a week). I use the Mundaka now since I wanted a softer shoe for smearing on volumes and it's an "aggressive" shoe visually but you wouldn't know it. for reference I wear a 7. Found them extremely comfortable and will probably end up buying them. It's a vicious cycle. Haven't found too much about them online so wanted to see what people's opinion on them are. Even the Mastia, though it is fairly different from the rest, it's still clearly a Tenaya shoe. A high performance range of climbing shoes offering a perfect balance of features, allowing the user to achieve maximum responsiveness in all types of situations. I've been climbing for almost 2 years, indoor bouldering and outdoor sport. Currently i’m using the Tenaya Ra, but as I’m sports climbing more and more outdoors I find that my Ra’s don’t cut it anymore as they’re too soft. I was previously recommended by friends to perhaps invest in a more intermediate climbing shoe as my bouldering problems often involve some overhang. trueGreat shoe, but they are probably not the most beginner friendly. I have a pretty narrow, low volume foot, with a bit of a roman foot (size 41. one more tight and one less, in both options the performance and comfort of the shoe will be optimal. Wish to see anyone's experience with them and maybe some tips 😊 Thank you, may you have a year full of good sends! Going from La Sportiva Solutions to Tenayas, I went down a quarter size. I finally bought my first pair of aggressive shoes coming from a old Tarantula and picked the Mastia after shop recommendation according to my feet shape. The heel does have a bit of air, but it has not popped for me so I am fine with it. I bought Oasi because i wanted an all rounder shoe that can smear and is decent in overhang and edging as well. This heel issue happens with almost all shoes i tried (five ten niad vs, boreal crux) I was wondering if We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Same with solutions, toes painfully tight but heel is so big. Nov 15, 2023 · An extremely comfortable and versatile performance shoe both inside and out, the Tenaya Mastia has a knack for making you feel secure on terrible holds. Tenaya Oasi LV - perfect for narrow feet and small heel. I have also tried Tenaya Oasi LV, which ended up still being pretty massive in the heel despite being low volume shoes. Now to my situation: Aggressively sized Solutions Comp fit my feet nicely with fairly minimal-break in. I've been climbing indoors for roughly 1. Tenaya mastia is a very similar shoe but it's got less toe rubber on top. Got them because they were on sale but will happily pay full price for another when these wear out. I usually rip them in half well before the first resole. Id like to try the Up Quibit LV or tenaya indalo. These were the shoes worn by Alex Megos during his historic world’s first 9a onsight ascent. Many Tenaya climbers combine both sizes at once. I cannot recommend tenayas enough and these are my favorite of the bunch. I have a 37 1/2 street size and I used to have 37 1/2 Tenaya shoes. So for now, i’m looking for a pair of shoes for vertical outdoors granite climbing on Scarpa drago lv - my current send shoe, love the sensitivity, but air pockets in heel prevent solid heel hooks Butora gomi narrow - my outdoor/ropes shoe, comfortable and sticky, but not sensitive, a bit too stiff Mantras "replaced" maverinks, which replaced speedsters. Regarding recent quality, i think La Sportiva and Tenaya are worst of the bunch ( with laspo ive run through ~ 20 pairs of shoes over the years, with tenaya about 5) with weak materials and poor ass engineering. Leaning towards these as I can try em on, can't try the other models unfortunately. I have had evolv Kronos in a size 13. 5 and they fit like a glove. Contemplating getting Scarpa Dragos and Tenaya Oasis again as I'm happy with them. Not enough tension in the rand, and lack of a real closure system. I mostly climb vertical to overhanging terrain. Here are my experiences for anybody who is interested. Then, I got a more performant shoes for outdoor climbing: the scarpa Vapor, and then used my origin only for training. The fact that they're decent all-rounders with that balance between grip/sensitivity and edging support is an added bonus :) Ocun Iris or Tenaya Mundaka? My first pair of climbing shoes (tarantula) is broken and I need new ones. Anyone have experience with the difference in fits between mastias and other tenaya shoes? I've had a couple pairs of Tenaya shoes, including the Oasis. For what it's worth, I size my Indalos 1. I did have a pair of Indalo for a Climbing shoe companies come to these events and let you try on pairs of shoes for usually up to a day to get a feel for them. Agreed. g. I only climb indoor boulders (~6C). E. Xs Grip 1. Last time I bought shoes I literally went thru three different sizes before finding the right fit. If you like Tenaya, try RA it’s a really good sport climbing shoes with thicker rubber so you don’t have worry too much the life span of the shoes. I hate to say this but, are you sure it's the shoes and not you? Feeling uncomfortable in shoes could have you subconsciously not press down hard - which will allow your feet to slip, which will make you trust your feet less. Which shoes in their line up would be best for competition bouldering? I have a narrow/medium width foot, and my favorite shoes have been the Drone CS and Drone OG. Reading the various posts, I feel like I might be the only one having this problem. . Alternative for Tenaya Tarifa I absolutely love the Tenaya Tarifa. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. TENAYA oasi's are my absolute favorite most comfortable shoe. Have been climbing for Very interesting. I can't seem to find a retailer around where I live and wanted to try them online, but was confused by a number of things. Maybe you can head down and take a look around! Just subjective preference, but I tried almost every tenaya shoe and I'm personally in love with tarifa, super comfy, y can push hard and edge like a boss although is a sensitive shoe. Jan 23, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. However, there is a little bit of excess fabric on the top of the foot and a bit of space in the sides of the heel. What shoes do you guys recommend that is similar to the tarifas but just smaller heel cup. I'm just used to those toes bending a bit in shoes We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Mantras could be a good gym shoe, but the heel could be a problem. (The Futuras are my secret weapons, and the Katana is my crack climbing shoe. Reply reply Anybody here have any recommendations for climbing shoes with a shallow heel? I've tried a couple different five ten's but always end up with a large air bubble in the heel even though my toes are jammed. It seems my heel just doesn't stick out much the way climbing shoes expect. The rubber is sticky, but seems to get worn quite quickly. My main problem is toe pain with a really loose heel. ) I think the Oasis have a really excellent balance of comfort and performance. I feel like tenaya has a bit of a reputation for narrower feet which I’m not sure I have, but I’m curious as to whether or not my feet will fit in other shoes like the iati or indalo as well as the mastia. i tried on the LS solutions (36) and evolv phantoms (38) at REI yesterday. Tenayas tend to be lower volume than Sportivas, and Oasi is already a very low volume shoe, especially compared to Skwamas, which have a wide toebox. I started out climbing with the mythos as well, which were very very comfortable but I abandoned them for the same reasons your friend doesn't like them. - The comparison: Long-time favourite, the original green Scarpa Furia, resoled, size EU41. Hey there, I am still looking for the perfect climbing shoes for my feet and am wondering whether something from Unparallel might fit the bill. Any suggestions on how much to downsize? I live in Melbourne, Australia and neither shoe is in anywhere locally to try. I've been climbing for several months now and have been wearing used Climb X shoes that I got from my cousin that fit and felt like I could climb well in them. Ultra performance-fit and needing long break-in. The rest of the shoe fits well but so much space in the heel I really can't trust heel hooks well (Either I can't feel it or the shoe honestly starts to pull off my foot). I wonder if OP doesn't like the way some shoes draw tension around the toe or perhaps dislikes more symmetric (toe-to-center) designs? As it is, they've picked just about the narrowest shoe in the bunch. This is just my opinion. At the beginning, I used them for everything, from training indoors to climbing outdoors. 55 votes, 94 comments. I still don't take them to outside trips because I can't take a whole day of climbing in Having climbed in the Tarifa, Oasi, Mundaka (briefly, not my favorite), Iati and Mastia, I have to say that while they all have subtle differences, they're all more alike than not. What do you think about Tarifa's? ty in advance! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. That might make them feel less rigid and maybe encourage them to move and accommodate your feet just a bit more. However, the Indalo is a more aggressive shoe than the Kubo, so you could probably go down half a size more. , newer La Sportiva shoes utilize a tweaked smaller heel design, such as on the Solutions Comp. Best production quality for me nowadays seems to be Evolv and Mad Rock. Evolv phantom is another but with full rubber coverage and stiffer. None really hold their shape relative to other brands (e. My Oasis are my go-to all-around shoe for face/sport climbing. I’ve never had any complaints and think they fit my climbing needs (70/30 sport vs bouldering) while being comfortable for my foot. I'm looking to get my first pair of climbing shoes as an absolute beginner. I do really like them for their good smearing capabilities and the soft and sticky rubber. They let me try the different types of shoes ranging from more comfortable shoes, to the more aggressive ones which provide more precision but are less comfortable. I'm an owner of Tenaya Indalo and I'm in love with them, performance and comfort. Alex Megos goes for the Indalo for both boulder and lead, they look LaSpo miuras for moderate to steep sport, skwamas for bouldering! LaSport is the best IMO, they fit my feet well (they are wide). I don’t fill the shoe. Toes feel great, heel stays on! Reply reply We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I love my Tenaya Mastia’s. My only problem with them is the laces. I would simply suggest trying out shoes known to favor wide feet which may help you find a size that works width-wise without overcompensating and impacting the heel. I’m in the market for a new pair and I’ve been feeling the temptation of aggressive shoes. Tenaya Iati: Best Low-Volume Shoes Facts Pros Cons Alternative Pick: Scarpa Drago LV Anatomy of a Rock Climbing Shoe Stiff vs. Apr 16, 2025 · So we thought we’d compile a list of our favorite sport climbing shoes—the shoes that our editors and testers choose to climb in when we’re not testing new shoes. It feels like the shoes drag across my toes no matter how much I downsize. The Katana is actually fairly narrow. the solutions fit my heel a little too big (even after sizing down), but the toe box was pretty tight. When I put the 3. My foot is slightly wide so it’s a bit tight in the front for me but it’s worth it bc they are literally the best shoes for my small heel. The shoe has been designed so that you can choose between two size options. umsdd rtwmo kkhlxg jjv anajsio fqmuh jmo dnnqx zfw jncccr